Ndaye ndothuka xa ndavula umba wam kaFebruwari 2016 It kule nyanga. Ndityhile amaphepha okuqala ambalwa, ahlala eyintengiso, ndisiya emfanekisweni wobuso obuqhelekileyo: istio, iinwele ezipinki, isandla sidutyulwe ngokuqinileyo ngeblutch encinci emnyama exhonywe eminwe yakhe. Wayenxibe ibhatyi yebiker epinki, kodwa le yayingeyondlela iqhelekileyo: yayikukuKhanya ukusuka Inqaku lokugqibela XIII (kunye neendlela ezininzi ezilandelelanayo). Imodeli yomdlalo wevidiyo wendlu yefashoni enkulu, uLouis Vuitton-kwaye ayingomzekelo nje, kodwa ekhanyisa iphulo: Intengiso yakhe yayiyeyona inkulu kwezintathu, kunye neemodeli zokwenene zabantu ezaziza emva kwakhe. Ewe ndandivile ngentsebenziswano ekuqaleni kukaJanuwari xa kwakubhengezwa, kodwa ngandlela thile ndandingalindelanga ukuyibona kwimagazini yefashoni-ngokuqinisekileyo yayingeyiyo eyaseNtshona-kwaye ke wayekhona.
Xa le ntsebenziswano yabhengezwa okokuqala, ngokwendalo, ndandineengcinga ezininzi. Eyokuqala yayingu, Louis Vuitton? Ngokwenene? Oko kubonakala njengokulingana okungaqhelekanga; Ndandihlala ndicinga ngombane njengohlobo lwentombazana ka-Alexander Wang, kwaye eyesibini yayi, Kutheni uLouis Vuitton? Kutheni umbane? Kutheni ngoku? Kodwa uninzi lomxholo wesigqibo khange uthethwe ngawo, yi-hype uqobo. Ndifuna ukumba nzulu kancinci kunezo zithunyelweyo-iindaba ezibhalwe ikakhulu ngabantu abangayazi imboni yefashoni kwaphela. Ekugqibeleni, into endiyifumeneyo kukuba isigqibo sokusebenzisa umbane njengemodeli sithetha ngakumbi ngotshintsho kushishino lwefashoni kunokuba lusenza ngomdlalo wevidiyo omnye. Sebenzisa umbane njengemodeli yindlela yokuzisa abaphulaphuli abatsha kwihlabathi lefashoni ephezulu-indlu yefashoni phakathi kokuzama ukwenza umfanekiso wayo ngokutsha, wokuhlaziya, wokuqonda ukuba isizukulwana esincinci sinokuba nomdla wantoni.
(nge ilouis vuitton / Umsebenzi we-Square Enix Visual Visual)
Imbali kaLouis Vuitton inde, njengoko uninzi lwezindlu zefashoni zaseFrance, kwaye ziphantse zamnandi njengayo nantoni na eyakhe yenzeka Ubumnandi bokugqibela umdlalo. U-Louis Vuitton wayengumntu wokwenene, umlimi wase-France (utata wakhe wayengumlingani) owazalwa ngo-1821 kwaye weza eParis eneminyaka eli-13 ubudala ukuba afunde ukwenza iziqu ezivela kwi-Monsieur Maréchal. Ayizizo zonke iziqu, kodwa imiboko intle kwaye intofontofo kangangokuba ilungele ubukhosi. Ngo-1852, emva kokuba uLouis-Napoleon enze uqhushululu kwaye wabuyisa indawo yakhe njengo-Emperor wase-France, uVuitton waba sisiqu sobuqu kwi-Empress Eugenie. Ngo-1854, wayevule ivenkile yakhe yokuqala, kodwa kwade kwango-1858 xa uVuitton wayenombono wakhe wokwenyani wokutshintsha umdlalo: wenza itrunk eyenziwe ngombala ongwevu, hayi ngesikhumba, okhanyayo, omelele ngakumbi sukuyenza impahla yakho inuke ngendlela ezenziwa ngayo nemiboko yesikhumba. Kodwa eyona nto intsha yokwenene yayikukuba yayixande, hayi ukujikeleza, oko kwakuthetha ukuba iziqu zakhe zinokubekwa ngokulula, into ebalulekileyo kwixesha elitsha lokuhamba kwezinto ngobuninzi, apho indawo kufuneka isetyenziswe ngobulumko. Babedume kangangokuba uVuitton wavula iworkshop yakhe ngaphandle kweParis. I-brand yakhawuleza yaziwa ngokusebenzisa izinto zangoku ukwenza umthwalo wayo, njenge-canvas kunye ne-glue, kunye nokusebenzisa imibala elula, eyona idumileyo yayisaziwa ngokuba yi-Trianon grey.
Ishishini lalikhula de kwayimfazwe yaseFranco-Prussian, eyatshabalalisa ubukhosi baseFrance bukaNapoleon, kodwa yaphumela kwimfazwe yamakhaya enegazi eyashiya uninzi lweParis kunye nemimandla eyingqongileyo, kubandakanya ilali encinci eyayineworkshop kaVuitton, ingamabhodlo. Kodwa masingakulibali ukuba le yindoda eyazenzela igama ngokoqobo ngaphandle kwento, yeza eParis ingenanto ngaphandle kweempahla ezisemqolo kwaye yalimaza ngokuthengisa izinto zasebukhosini kwihlabathi liphela. Waqala kwakhona, kwaye ngo-1871, waseka ivenkile entsha kwinto eya kuba yenye yeedilesi ezikhethekileyo eParis entsha, kwaye kunyaka olandelayo wenza isimbo esitsha, esilula somthi esenziwe nge-canvas ye-beige kunye nemivimbo ebomvu, apho i-elite entsha yase-France yawela khona. Esi yayisisiqalo sikaLouis Vuitton njengophawu lobunewunewu, kwaye unyana wakhe uGeorges wayeza kuqhubeka neshishini emva kokubhubha kwakhe, esenza i-monogram ye-LV eyathandwa kakhulu ngasekupheleni kweminyaka yoo-1990. Nangona kunjalo, uLouis Vuitton wayengazukuhamba kude nemithwalo kunye neebhegi de kube li-1990s, emva kokuba yayithengiwe yinkampani yexabiso eliphambili ngoku eyaziwa ngokuba yi-LVMH.
Intloko ye-LVMH uBernard Arnault khange ayenze iVuitton ibe yindlu yefashoni kude kube ngo-1997, xa wayeqesha i-badboy wunderkind yangoku yefashoni, uMarc Jacobs, njengomlawuli woyilo kwimigca elungele ukunxiba uphawu. UJacobs wayidlala ekhuselekile ngengqokelela yokuqala, ehlawula imbeko kuTrianon grey nengqokelela eyenziwe ngokupheleleyo emhlophe nengwevu, kunye ne-monogram eyaziwayo ye-LV efihliweyo ngaphakathi. UJacobs ebengayi kuhlala ethulile ixesha elide, kwaye uphawu ngokukhawuleza lwanxulunyaniswa nodumo oluqhutywa, intombazana yentombazana yokuphila kwasekupheleni kweminyaka yama-90 kunye nasekuqaleni kweminyaka yama-2000. I-monogram ye-LV yayiza kuphinda idume kwakhona njengoko uJacobs wayityabeka phantse kuyo yonke ingxowa eyaziwayo ukuba ikhona, kunye nezinye izinto ezininzi ezalandelwa ngokulandelayo, ukuqala umkhwa welebelmania oza kuchaza elo xesha. UMarc Jacobs wasala njengomlawuli woyilo kude kube ngo-2013, xa ngequbuliso wehla emveni koku Intwasahlobo / ihlobo 2014 bonisa , ethi, nangona yenziwe ngokupheleleyo kwimibala emnyama, isilele nakuphi na ukubonakala kukaJacobs. UNicolas Ghesquière, owayefudula engowaseBalenciaga, wathatha isikhundla sokuba ngumlawuli wobuchule kwinyanga elandelayo isibhengezo sikaJacobs.
Xa uGhesquière wangena ebhodini, kwacaca ukuba ufuna ukubeka eyakhe isitampu esitsha kwizinto. Ingqokelela yakhe yokuqala yayiyimibono emitsha yohlobo lophawu: iiprinta ezintsha, iimilo zebhegi ezintsha, amalaphu amatsha, kwaneemodeli ezintsha. Wonke umntu oye kumdlalo wakhe wokuqala wafumana inqaku kuye lifunda, Olu lusuku olutsha. Vogue UK uchaze umboniso njengowutsha, ocwebezelayo nala maxesha. Kwiminyaka emibini kamva, i-Ghesquière isentsha ngokufanelekileyo kwi-brand kwaye isazama ukwahlula phakathi kwe-Jacobs-era Vuitton. Ngandlela thile, ngokwenza umdlalo wevidiyo njengentombazana yakhe yamva nje, wenza kwa into enye noMarc Jacobs xa wayesenza UJennifer Lopez ubuso bebhrendi ngo-2003: ukuvuselela ubume behlabathi lefashoni ngelixa ufikelela kubaphulaphuli abancinci, abancinci.
Kuba umdlalo wevidiyo awukaze ubekho kwindalo iphela, iyavakala, kodwa eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu kukuba ingqokelela yeLouis Vuitton yeNtwasahlobo / yeHlabathi ka-2016 intle kakhulu iphefumlelwe yinkcubeko ye-geek: Ilifa leTRON , Umboniso bhanyabhanya weWong Kar-wai 2046 , Imvakalelo 8 , kunye Uvangelo Zonke ziindawo ezichaziweyo zale ngqokelela. Iimodeli nkqu wahamba umgaqo wokuya kumculo osuka eMinecraft. Ilizwi lekhompyuter lazisa ngokoqobo umboniso njengohambo oluya kwimida yexesha ledijithali. Ngayo INyanga yoLwandle -ibhanti zentsimbi zentsimbi, iimpembelelo zebiker, kunye nemibala yeelekese, le ngqokelela yeleta yothando kwisizukulwane esincinci, esinedijithali. Kuyavakala kuphela ukuba i-ambassade yokuqokelela iya kuba yindalo yedijithali. Ngelixa uMbane usenokungabonakali okokuqala njengokhetho lokuqala, ujongeka emhle (uninzi) lweqoqo leNtlakohlaza / ihlobo 2015. Akukhathazi nokuba ujongeka njengemodeli-du-jour: inwele kunye nepinki eneenwele, njenge UFernanda Hin Lin Ly kunye noCharlotte Simahla.
Kukho esinye isizathu esibalulekileyo sokuba uMbane ukhethwe njengobuso beli phulo: intengiso yezentengiso yaseAsia. Akukho mfihlo kwihlabathi lefashoni ukuba intengiso yaseAsia ngoku ibaluleke kakhulu kwiimpawu zodidi kunolo lwaseNtshona. Kulapho imali ikhoyo kwaye ibikhona kangangexesha elithile ngoku, ke iimveliso ezinje ngeLouis Vuitton ziye zajolisa ekuvuleni iivenkile ezininzi eAsia kwaye zijolise ekufikeleleni kulowo mthengi. Nangona kunjalo, ukuthengisa kuye kwawa kutshanje, kwaye Ubunewunewu obunomphetho kubonakala ngathi yinto ekhulayo apho . Iimpawu ezinje ngeBalenciaga (yep, indlu yoyilo eyayisetyenziswa nguGhesquière- ayenzeki ngamabona-ndenzile), enerock and roll sensibility, but also less tolerance for logos, is the Asia Asian consumer consumer looking. Ingqokelela ye-LV S / S 2016 iyayifanela le ntlawulo iyile ku-T. Nokuba i-monogram eyaziwayo ye-LV ihambile, ithathelwe indawo ngezinto ezilula zobhedu kwizibambo ezibonakala ngathi ziyaxubana ezingxoweni, ukuba ikho kwaphela. Kwaye ngelixa umbane mhlawumbi awungowona udumileyo Ubumnandi bokugqibela Iqhawekazi laseNtshona, ngokuqinisekileyo ulapha eJapan. Ayilo mkhankaso wakhe wokuqala wefashoni ephezulu: Iyonke Inqaku lokugqibela XIII I-cast yahonjiswa ePrada ukuze ifoto isasazeke kwimagazini yaseJapan I-Arena Amadoda + umva umva ngo-2012 .
(ngokusebenzisa iPrada / Square Enix Visual Works)
Ewe kunjalo, akufani nokuba i-Square Enix ayifumani nto kule nto-bafumana ukhuselo kuzo zombini iimpapasho zemidlalo yevidiyo kunye nefashoni, kwaye yonke into isasazeka ngeMidlalo yeTwitter njengomlilo wasendle xa kwakubhengezwa. Ayisiyo mali encinci xa unesihloko sakho sokuqala esilandelayo kwisigaba esikhutshwe kulo nyaka, kodwa ngaba lo mqondiso uyinguqu enkulu kwindlela yefashoni eza kusetyenziswa kwimidlalo, okanye kubudlelwane befashoni nemidlalo? Mhlawumbi akunjalo. Hayi ngalo naliphi na ixesha kungekudala. Isikwere i-Enix intle ngaphandle kwebhokisi ekuzimiseleni kwabo ukusebenzisana nomhlaba wefashoni ( Inqaku lokugqibela XV inokuba ngumdlalo wokuqala ukuba oyili wefashoni yokwenyani yenza ezinye zeewodrobhu zabalinganiswa). Endaweni yoko, ingakumbi malunga noNicolas Ghesquière ukuphinda achaze indlu yefashoni yobudala bedijithali, ngelixa efikelela kwintengiso enenzuzo. Kungenzeka ukuba le nto ekugqibeleni ingaseta umkhwa kwishishini kwaye yenze indlela yokusebenzisana ngakumbi ezantsi, kodwa andizukubamba umphefumlo wam. (Esi sisimemo sam sokungqina ukuba ndiphosakele, umzi mveliso wevidiyo yeAAA!)
UMegan Patterson ngumbhali ozimeleyo kunye nomhleli wesayensi kunye netekhnoloji IPhepha leDroids , indawo yenkcubeko ye-geek feminist. Xa engabhali, unokumfumana Twitter , ethetha ngendlela emhle ngayo okanye ekhala ngento engekhoyo (ikholisa ukuba ngamavidiyo).
-Ndicela uqaphele umgaqo-nkqubo kaMary Sue wokuphawula ngokubanzi.
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