Izambatho zangaphantsi kwimidlalo yevidiyo zihlala zidida kwaye ziyandibhida, xa bezikhathaza ngokwamkela ukuba abasetyhini bayayinxiba kwaphela. Hayi kubaKuphela ngabafazi kuphela obabonayo kubo, nakwimeko yesini samadoda / sabasetyhini isabelo esihle sexesha. Oko kukuthi, ngokungathandabuzekiyo ingxaki. Kodwa eli qhekeza alikho malunga nokuba okanye akunjalo ngesondo ukubonisa kuphela abalinganiswa besetyhini kwimidlalo kwiingubo zabo zangaphantsi (kuba ndiyathemba ukuba impendulo iyacaca). Ayisiyonto malunga ne-slut ehlazisa abalinganiswa ababonakala kwii-skivvies zabo (kuba loo nto ibi kakhulu, kwaye andikholelwa ekubuzeni ukhetho lomntu wokunxiba ngokusekwe kuloo metric.) Esi siqwenga simalunga nokuba ishishini elilawulwa yindoda lihlala lingaqondi njani iimpahla zangaphantsi iyasebenza.
Ukunxiba impahla yangaphantsi yinto ebaluleke kakhulu kuyo nayiphi na impahla, ngakumbi ukuba umdlalo utsala inkuthazo yempahla kwinto entle nangaliphi na ixesha ngaphambi kuka-1970. Kodwa kuhlala kukho unxibelelwano olukhulu phakathi kwento enxitywa ngumlinganiswa ngaphandle kwempahla yabo, kwaye kuhamba ntoni ngaphantsi, kwaye ubukhulu becala ishiya nje ndididekile.
Inqaku: ukulungiselela eli qhekeza, ubukhulu becala ndiza kube ndithetha ngezinxibo zaseNtshona okanye zaseNtshona, kuba ngaphandle kwezimbalwa kakhulu yile nto isinxibo somdlalo sisuselwe kuso.
Hayi, indlu yokuhlambela i-Golden Cat isuka Uhlazekile . Ngokunokwenzeka abona bantu baninzi kwii-skivvies zabo ngaxeshanye kumdlalo wevidiyo. Ndineengxaki ezininzi kwezi; Ezona zibonakala ngokucacileyo kwaye zikhazimla zezo zangaphantsi. Kukho izimbo ezahlukeneyo ezinxitywa ngabafazi, eneneni. Ungambona lo mfazi esondele kuthi kule skrini unxibe into efana ne-skimpier pair of bloomers-zomahluko ezibini zeefrills, ezisikwe ngokufanelekileyo. Kodwa umfazi osemva unxibe ngakumbi 'Iindlela ezingama-20 zokungena kunye nebrasiere.
Ngoku, andinangxaki namaxesha okuxuba kunye nezitayile apha - iDunwall, ngapha koko, ayifani neli hlabathi. Kodwa kukho ingxaki enkulu kubo ekukhetheni ezi zitayile, kwaye isitshixo kukukhumbula ukuba banxibe ntoni abafazi baseDunwall Ngaphezulu yezi mpahla. Inkqubo ye- Dunwall khangela amanenekazi yingubo yangaphantsi efanelekileyo nebhulukhwe. Ngoku, iintyatyambo zivela ngasekupheleni kwenkulungwane ye-19 kwaye enye ivela kwi-20s. Abasetyhini bebenganxibi rhoqo iibhulukhwe kwi-19, kwaye ngelixa abasetyhini abakwi-'20s babesenza, ukusikwa kwahluke kakhulu kwabakulo mdlalo. Ngokusisiseko, zinemilenze ebanzi, inamandla kakhulu, kwaye iyakwazi ukuhlalisa iimpahla zangaphantsi ezinje (ezirhabaxa mhlawumbi ngekhe zisebenze phantsi kwayo nantoni na ngaphandle kweziketi).
Ke ngoku, le mpahla yangaphantsi ayingqinelani nempahla ekufanele ukuba idlule kuyo. Iya kudibana, kwaye ijongeke yoyikeka, kwaye ingabi ntle. Akunakulindeleka ukuba yile nto yangaphantsi eDunwall eya kujongeka ngathi isekwe kwimpahla yabo yangaphandle. Andinangxaki ngomdlalo oguqula izitayile zefashoni; kodwa kubalulekile ukuqonda ukuba yintoni kanye oyichithayo, kwaye kucacile ukuba khange babekho apha. Yintoni enokwenza ingqiqo ngakumbi yinto efana nebhanti, kunye neempahla zangaphantsi ezifanelekileyo zokutshatisa.
Omnye umba endinawo ngowombala. Kutheni umbala weengubo ezindala ezingcolileyo ezindala? Ngaba ayifanelanga ukuba yindawo ebizayo le? Umbala uyayigxininisa loo nto ngokuba ngokuchaseneyo nobukhazikhazi. Kodwa okukhona ndicinga ngayo, ndiye ndabona isizathu solu khetho lombala: kungoko ukuhonjiswa kubonakala ngakumbi. Abafuni ukuba abasetyhini batsalele ingqalelo kude kwindlela entle kunye nendawo ekuyo. Isakhiwo sibaluleke ngaphezu kwabo.
Ngoku, ndiyathandabuza ukuba oku kuthetha njengalo naluphi na uhlobo lwengxelo enkulu malunga nokulahleka kwabasetyhini (ngakumbi ukuthengiswa kwabathengisi ngesondo); lukhetho loyilo nje olwenzelwe ukuba abadlali bahlawule ingqalelo engqongileyo kunabantu. Nangona kunjalo, abayenzi nyani le nto ngabalinganiswa abangamadoda kwindawo yoonongogo (abo bahle kakhulu bonke abade bavuleke, kuba kunjalo abekho), kulapho ke le nto iqala ukundenza ndingonwabi. Isimboli esasemva kolu khetho loyilo luthetha lukhulu kum, umdlali obhinqileyo, kwaye kusenokwenzeka ukuba yenziwe ngaphandle kokucinga ngayo.
Kunzima ngokwenene ukufumana umpu wale, ukujonga iimpahla zangaphantsi zikaMerrill Ubudala be Dragon 2 . Lo ngumzekelo omhle wokuba imeko yengubo, nokuba yimpahla yangaphantsi ibalulekile. Le yingubo ebiza kakhulu - kukho iiribhoni, umsonto wegolide, iiyadi ezilithoba zonke. Kodwa kanye le mpahla yangaphantsi ibonwa kuwo onke amabhinqa anganxibanga angafumananga - uDalish okanye isicaka, umsebenzi wehenyukazi okanye hayi. Iyavakala into kubafazi abakwi-brothel-banokuyifumana.
Kodwa uMerrill NGOKUQHELEKILEYO UHLALA KWI-SUM. Ndiyathetha ukuba ndicinga ukuba ungaphikisa ukuba uhlala ematyotyombeni kuba uchithe yonke imali yakhe kwimpahla yangaphantsi entle (ebelapho), kodwa le ngubo ibonakala ngathi iyaphikisana nezinto ezithandwa nguMerrill kunye nendlela aphila ngayo. Ukhulele ehlathini, kwaye uninzi lwezi zinto mhlawumbi kuya kufuneka zivela esixekweni. Kwaye kubonakala ngathi kuyangxola, ke kuyangqubana nobuntu bakhe. Ndiyathetha, iMerrill ngokucacileyo yi-freeboob okanye intombazana ye-bandeau,njengabafazi lo mfanekiso wamandulo waseRoma eVilla Romana del Casale eSicily. (Nangona ngobuchwephesha ezi zibizwa ngokuba yi- strophium.) U-Frilly, intombazana engasebenziyo ye-corset ngu-Isabela. Ngokuchasene noko, mhlawumbi i-Hawke ayintle ngokwaneleyo ukuba inikwe isikhululo sayo, kodwa ngenxa yokuba ikhulele efama mhlawumbi ayiyonyani ukuba ayizange iphucule.
Lo ngomnye umzekelo wengubo yangaphantsi engenangqondo kwimpahla ekufuneka iye phantsi kwayo - iflap yangaphambili inomdla ngokubonakalayo, kodwa ayisebenzi ncam xa ucinga ukuba uMerrill unxibe iileggings ze-chainmail. (Nceda ugcine engqondweni ukuba omnye umaleko wee-leggings kuya kufuneka uqhubeke phantsi kwe-chainmail.) Kwaye iya phi inquma? Kwaye ngoba iyahamba inquma? (Hayi ngokungathí sina, inquma liyinqaba.)
Inkwenkwe ye-Hoo, CORSETS. IiCorsets kwimidlalo… zixakile. Amaxesha amaninzi ayizizo ii-corsets zokwenyani; zizinto zentsimbi ezinqeni, enye into iyonke. Makhe sijonge uElizabeth apha Bioshock engenasiphelo . Oku kufanele ukuba yi-corset ukusukela ngeminyaka yoo-1890, ngoko ke yahluke kancinane kwii-corsets uninzi lwabasetyhini olwaluza kunxiba ngo-1912. Ngo-1912, i-S-shape corset yayisefashinini, eyayikhuthaza ubume bendalo obungaphezulu kunobo 19thinkulungwane, kwaye zihlala zingakhange zivele ngaphezulu kwesibetho.
IiCorsets ezisusela kwiminyaka yoo-1890 zakhuthaza ubume beglassglass obugqithisileyo; olu hlobo olunye lwenza loo nto, kodwa ukumila akuyonyani njengokuba kufanelekile. Akukho boning phantse ngokwaneleyo kwesi siqwenga (ii-corsets zeli xesha zihlala zinamaqhosha angama-30 okubonela kuwo, kwaye eli libonakala ngathi linamabini). Ijongeka kakhulu ngathi yi-spandex kunengubo engqongqo ekufuneka ibe yiyo. Ungayichazanga eyokuba akanxibanga mpahla nokuba ingezantsi okanye ngaphezulu kwayo. (IiCorsets ngeli xesha zazisoloko zinxitywa ngaphezulu kweekhemikhali zomqhaphu, kuba kungenjalo ingubo eqinileyo iya kumcaphukisa lowo uyinxibileyo.) ngaphaya i-corset, hayi phantsi.
Kufuneka kuqatshelwe ukuba le mpahla ayihambelani kude nento eyayiza kunxitywa ngumfazi nge-1890s - enye into, imikhono ayinkulu ngokwaneleyo. Eyona silhouette ixhaphakileyo Ngeminyaka yoo-1890 yayiyinqeni e-cinched enomlenze we-huuuuuuge weemikhono zenyama, ngamanye amaxesha zide zibhontshwe kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo zinxitywe ukubanika imilo yazo. Oku kakhulu ngumbono womntu wale mihla wokuba injani i-corset yase-Victorian. Engeyiyo kunyanzelekile into embi. Kwaye ayifani nokuba lo mdlalo uyifumene ingalunganga - ujonge uRosalind Lutece ngokuchanekileyo ukuba kufanelekile, kuba umyili wakhe wenze uphando.
I-corset ye-1890s esuka kuAugusta Ifandesi.
Kodwa ingxaki enkulu endinayo ngempahla kwimidlalo, kwaye ikakhulu iimpahla zabasetyhini, kukuba kuninzi kakhulu ubuchule banamhlanje obuziswe kukhetho lwempahla, nokuba oko bekungadingeki kufanelekile. Impahla yabasetyhini kwimidlalo ihlala ijongeka ipeyintwe emzimbeni, ukuba nenenekazi elinomtsalane. Kulungile (kwaye i-kinda gross), kodwa ayisiyiyo indlela ezisebenza ngayo iimpahla, kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo ayisiyiyo indlela iimpahla ezisebenza ngayo kumaxesha ngaphambi kwale. Kwakungekho kude kube sekupheleni kweminyaka yama-‘60 / ’70s apho ingcamango yokunxiba esinayo ngoku, apho umzimba kufuneka wenziwe ulingane nomfanekiso osefashonini, ngokwenene waba yinxalenye yenkcubeko yethu eNtshona.
Ngaphambi koko, iimpahla ezisisiseko, ezinjenge-corset, umbhinqo, iipaniki, iipitikoti, ii-bum rolls, ii-bustles, phantse zonke iimpahla zangaphantsi ezazinxitywa ngabafazi, zazisetyenziselwa yenza isilhouette efunwayo. Kwaye abafazi babengekho ngaphezulu ukuya kuthi ga ngoku ukuzisongela Ukuqinisekisa ukuba iimpahla ziyasebenza, kuba iimpahla zazenziwe kucingwa ngezi mpahla zesiseko. Endaweni yokuba naloo boob-saran-wrap-jonga ukuba imidlalo emininzi inayo (kuba izulu LIYALALELA ukuba siyalibala ukuba lo mntu kuthethwa ngaye unama-boobs ngomzuzwana omnye), iimpahla zihlala ngaphezulu kwimpahla yesiseko kunomzimba ngokwawo. Ngaphandle kwee-corsets zangaphambili, iibhodi zeengubo ziya kuqiniswa ukuze kuncede umntu onxibayo afezekise imilo efunwayo.
Iipaneli zeLACMA.
Kwaye olu luvo luphumelele kakuhle ukuya kuma-20thinkulungwane, ngee-corselette kwii-1920s ukunceda abasetyhini ukuba bafezekise inani lobuntwana elifunekayo ukuba banxibe bonke abo behle iilokhwe ezinqeni, kwiibhanti kunye neebhulethi zebhulethi kwii-40s kunye nee-50s. Impahla yayenzelwe ukuhambelana nezambatho zesiseko hayi umzimba ngokwawo, kwaye iimpahla ezingonelanga kwimidlalo zibonakala ziyakuqonda oku.
Izambatho kufuneka ziyilelwe ngaphakathi-ngaphandle, umaleko ngokobume, ukufumana umfaniso olungileyo, kodwa ukunqanda neempazamo ezinje Uhlazekile umzekelo, apho kungenakwenzeka ukuba isambatho sangaphantsi sinokulingana phantsi kwempahla kumdlalo. Ikwathetha ukuba iimpahla zomdlalo azidlali ngokwenyani kunye nobungakanani, kuba abayili batshatile kakhulu kolu luvo lokuba iimpahla kufuneka zinciphe-zisongelwe emzimbeni womntu ozinxibileyo, kwaye oku kwenza uninzi loyilo luyadika. Akukho mntu wenza nantoni na epholileyo, egudileyo, okanye odlala ngezinto ezifana neebhasi kunye neepanniers, kuba basebenza kakhulu ukusuka kumbono wanamhlanje wokuba impahla ifanele ibonakale njani emzimbeni. Kukho ukunqunyulwa kwimidlalo yolwazi malunga nokunxiba kunye nembali yayo, kwaye ndicinga ukuba oko kuyenza kakhulu, kuyadika kakhulu iimpahla zomdlalo wevidiyo.
UMegan Patterson ngumbhali ozimeleyo kunye nomhleli wesayensi kunye netekhnoloji IPhepha leDroids , indawo yenkcubeko ye-geek feminist. Xa engabhali, unokumfumana Twitter , ethetha ngendlela emhle ngayo okanye ekhala ngento engekhoyo (ikholisa ukuba ngamavidiyo).
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